La Habana: Arrival

Arrival with an Air France Jumbo Jet from Paris in the afternoon at the Airport José Martí in the south of Havana. The pass control is smooth, but very slow. After the luggage claim we transfer to the modern hotel quarter Vedado in Havana. We move into our private lodging.

La Habana: First Sight-Seeing

After the first night a first sight-seeing on foot is on the program. We walk along the Malecón (coastal highway), direction old town. Passing the port entrance with its twin fortresses La Punta and El Morro, we reach the oldest fortress of Havana, the Castillo de la Real Fuerza, built in the 16th century. Over the Plaza de Armas we reach the Plaza de la Catedral with its plain cathedral.

Further over the Calle Obispo direction west. This alley is the best shopping mile in the old town. We cross the Plaza Central and go along the Gran Teatro de la Habana to the Capitolio. The visit brings us into a splendid building. Inside stands the third biggest bronze statue in the world under roof. The Capitolio was built in 1928 by the former dictator Gerardo Machado after its model in Washington. There are two chambers of parliament, which are located at the end of the right and left wing. Inbetween we find some meeting rooms. Each of them is built in a different architectural style according to the various styles in Europe.

The walk back again along the Malecón.

La Habana: Sight-Seeing of the Fortresses El Morro and La Cabaña

By taxi we cross the tunnel under the entrance of the harbour to reach the Spanish fortress El Morro. Through a narrow passage we get to the mighty entrance gate and can begin with the visit. First we climb on the 150 year old lighthouse, the Faro. The view over the bay and the city is phantastic. Eastwards you see until the retort housing resort of Habana del Este.

In the rooms of the barracks and quarters of the former garrison is installed a museum. It is dedicated to the history of seafaring and the discovery of America by Columbus. On the roof terrace there are canons of different epochs, whose condition is more than miserable.

Lunch we take in the stateowned restaurant Doce Apostoles.The meal was not bad, but the problems came later with the bill. At first the waiter tried to make us pay for the menue of the table next to us too. When we called his attention to that fact he went grumpy to change the bill. To our surprise we found now under the correct bill written by pencil that we would have to pay an additionel 10 % for Service. Our checkback showed that they would do so always, but that it would be optional to pay the addition. Lucky are only those who are speaking Spanish!

After lunch we walk now in the direction of the fortress La Cabaña. This biggest of all fortresses of Havana was built after the withdrawal of the English invaders in 1763. It is a giant complex with barracks, stables, drilling field and even a chapel. The museum shows an exhibition about the constructions of fortresses in the New World and a collection of weapens from the entire world. Ernesto "Che" Guevara was commander of the fortress after the revolution. His offices are open for visiting.

Every evening at exactly nine o’clock is fired the so called Cañonazo, one shot of canon as a sign to close the gate of the town.

La Habana: Visit of Museums and Further Tour of Habana Vieja

After the walk through the street San Lazaro, a street parallel to the Malecón, we reach the Museo de la Revolución, which is installed in the former palace of the president. The exhibition is concerned with the most recent history of Cuba: With the overthrow of the dictator Fulgencio Batista and the following taking over by the rebels around Fidel Castro. Everything is seen of course from the point of view of the communist leadership. Behind the palace there is located the Memorial Granma, where the ship, in which Fidel and his companions have transferred from Mexico, is displayed in its shrine of glass. Besides there are exhibited several vehicles and airplanes, which were involved in the revolutionary turmoils.

After a short walk along the capitol and the factory of cigars Partagas we reach the Chinese quarter, which consists in fact only in one street. We decide on one of the numerous restaurants and eat chicken Cantonese manner.

At the Plaza de la Catedral, in front of the cathedral, we visit the museum of the Spanish colonial epoch. Not as expected are objects from the 400 years of colonialism exhibited, but almost exclusively from the 19th century. The omnium gatherum includes vases, candles, windows etc.

The way back by taxi starting near the cathedral.

Dinner at a privately managed Paladar in Centro Habana.

La Habana: View Points – Plaza de la Revolución – Cemetery

After changing money at the bank in the Hotel Habana Libre (3 % commission on Thomas Cook Travellers Cheques) we take the elevator to the 20th floor of the hotel, where a terrasse of sight offers a beautiful view over Centro Habana and until the Revolution Square in the south. The city, above all the quarter of Centro Habana, looks from this hight almost as if it had a recent bomb raid behind.

Then we continue to the Hotel Nacional de Cuba, which is situated on a hill near the intersection Malecón and Calle 23 (La Rampa). It has two swimming pools. We decide on the more modest one: You do not pay an entrance fee of 5 USD and you are alone. Single disadvance: Towards the evening the sun disappears early.

After a short refreshing bath we take a taxi and drive to the Plaza de la Revolución with its Jose Martí-Monument. From there it is a stone’s throw to the Cementerio Colón. The biggest cemetery of America contains more than 700 000 tombs and graves.

Before dinner we take an aperitif on the 35th floor in the Focsa-tower block. Also from there you have a wonderful view over the city. In the west you can see until the Marina Hemingway at a distance of 15 km.

Dinner again in a private restaurant, this time in Vedado.

Cojímar

In the morning taxi ride to Cojímar, a fishing village in the east of Havana. At the Villa Panamericana, built for the Panamerican Games in 1991, we leave the taxi. After an ice cream refreshment exploration of the villa. By looking at the buildings you can’t imagine that only ten years ago goats and sheep were still grazing here. It is unthinkable, that these residential buildings are only nine years old, so in ruins is everything already.

Further on it goes in the direction of the sea. In the bay stands a spanish fortress of the 17th century. Unfortunately the coast guard keeps it occupied, a visit is not possible. In front of the Morro de Cojímar stands the first Ernest Hemingway monument. Hemingway, as far as he is concerned, made Cojímar famous with his prize winning novel "The Old Man and the Sea". Also he had his ship Pilar here ride at anchor.

Further at the bay lies the restaurant La Terraza de Cojímar, where Hemingway often used to stay. Many fotos are to see, also together with Fidel Castro, who won the first Hemingway fishing contest.

At high noon we go by taxi to the beach to relax a little.

We return to Cojímar and have there dinner in a Paladar.

Ride back by Bus Nr. 58 to Vedado.

La Habana: Museum of Miniature – Miramar – Marina Hemingway

In the morning discussion how we can make a tour around the island with a rented car.

After a brunch we ride by taxi to the Maquita de la Havana, where the probably biggest model of a city is to be marvelled at. The whole town of Havana is built up in this pavillon on a scale of 1:1000. The various epochs are displayed in different colours. So Havana before the turn of the century is red , the time up to the revolution is ochre and the achievements of the revolution ivory. Areas under construction and in the planning state are in white. So you can make out very well, that after the revolution almost nothing has been built, apart from the awful developments in Habana del Este.

Further it goes through the streets of Miramar, where the rich and beautiful used to live before the revolution. Everything is a little in bad shape, but you can imagine the manner of life in the fifties in the villas in this suburbial quarter built according to the American style. Besides the Russian embassy, a tower upon a tower, is the biggest supermarket of Cuba. Earlier it was called simply Diplomercado, because only diplomats were admitted. The assortment is modest, but you find everything necessary, although partly for exorbitant prizes.

Along the twin towers of the hotel complex Neptuno-Triton, the new Meliá Habana and the bungalows of the Comodoro we drive along a tree hemmed alley towards west. After ca. 6 km we reach the western border of the city of Havana, where the Marina Hemingway is located. To our surprise many American boats ride at anchor there.

The late afternoon we spend with a walk around the railroad station. Cuba is the only state in the Caribbean, which has still functioning train connections.

On the opposite side of the station exist still fragments of the town wall.

La Habana - Soroa - Viñales - Pinar del Rio - La Habana

Towards nine’o clock we take over our rented car, a Mitsubishi Lancer. A reservation was not possible, they told us to look in once more on the day of the wanted takeover. The rent isn’t exactly cheap. Including an all-inclusive insurance it costs about 84 USD per day. The gasoline amounts to 75 Cents per liter for Regular and to 90 Cents for Especial. In order to exclude possible problems we rent the car initially just for one day. So we can test, if it is fit for the trip all over the island.

The drive goes south, direction airport, from where the Carretera Central should take us westwards. After ca. 100 km, along pastures, sugar cane and rice fields, we turn north to reach Soroa.

Soroa lies in a mountain valley. We visit the orchid garden, where over 700 species are displayed. Unfortunately not many are in bloom, because the blossom time of most of them is in the winter months. The nice and attentive guide explains to us quite a lot about the flowers. Many of the plants we recognize as room plants from home.

After paying an additional entrance fee we stroll along a jungle path down to the waterfall of Soroa. The fall precipitates in the middle of the forest ca. 20 m deep, where local people are having fun in bathing.

Now we return to the autoroute and on towards Viñales. Behind the turn-off it leads straight into the mountains. After ca 20 km we reach the Hotel Los Jazmines, from where you have the best overall view of the Valley of Viñales with its Mogotes. This hotel is for me the most beautifully situated of the entire island. We drive through the little town of Viñales and come to the Cueva del Indio. Circa 500m you walk into the cave and get to a subterranean river. With a boat you are brought accross under the Mogote hill to the other side.You are lead past souvenir stands and get via country road back to the parking lot. After a short drive back in the direction of Viñales we reach the Cueva de Viñales. The entrance of this cave was formerly used as a discotheque and is now-a-days but a snack-bar. Here too you can get through the mountain to the other side. There an exhibition of the colours of the Santería Deities is awaiting you.

The drive continues to Pinar del Rio, capital of the province of the same name.There isn’t much to see, worth mentioning is only a tobacco factory and the theatre.

The drive back takes about 2 ½ hours, considerung that at night more time is spent because of frequent potholes and the miserable signposting especially near Havana.

La Habana - Guamá - Bay of Pigs - Cienfuegos

At nine o‘clock we are ready to renew the rental agreement for the car in order to tackle our drive through the whole of Cuba.

Through the tunnel we go along the Primer Anillo until the Carretera Central. We drive in the direction of Jagüey Grande, where we take something to eat at the autoroute stop. Right next lies the turn-off to Guamá, where a crocodile farm awaits us. The farm is relatively near to nature: The crocodiles live in a big area with ponds and spacious green layouts.

The drive continues in direction south, towards the Bahía de los Cochinos and leads through swampy areas. The Bay of Pigs with the little town of Playa Girón offers nothing spectacular, except the museum Playa Girón, which pays homage to the "glorious" victory against the invaders. Exhibition of all the fotos and objects of the fallen heroes, incl. money and knife, fork and spoon.

After a long drive at random in the direction northeast and several times of inquiring of passers-by we reach the country road again, which brings us to Cienfuegos. After dinner in the restaurant of the Palacio Valle overnight stay in the Hotel Jagua in Punta Gorda.

Cienfuegos - Trinidad

After breakfast and a short walk around in Punta Gorda we drive to the entirely restored Parque Martí in the center of Cienfuegos. The visiting including the Teatro Terry, City Hall and Cathedral ca. one hour. Over the Prado, which is hemmed by many beautifully restored houses,we reach after the cemetary the country road, which brings us after ca. 70 km to Trinidad. The route is very charming, first the road wriggels almost like in our prealps through the Sierra del Escambray, later on she follows the coast.

After checking in at the Hotel Las Cuevas above Trinidad we go for an extensive walk through the probably best preserved colonial town of Cuba. There are many colonial cobblestone pavements in the narrow streets to see, also churches, squares, musems etc. A great view over the town you have on the tower of the Colonial Museum and the tower of the San Francisco Church.

Dinner in the Hotel. Tip: The discotheque Las Cuevas in a cave near the hotel is, because of the rooms, among the most beautiful ones in Cuba.

Trinidad - Camagüey

After the breakfast buffet we walk another round in Trinidad and visit the Colonial Museum with an observation terrasse on its tower.

Towards noon we continue our trip in the direction of Camagüey. After ca. 12 km first stop at an elevated view point where you have a marvellous view over the Valle de Ingenios. After an additional 15 min of driving we reach the former estate of the family Iznaga and climb on the slave tower besides the mansion.

Driving on over Sanctí Spiritus to Camagüey. After reaching this next destination the search for the Gran Hotel is somewhat difficult because of the bad signposting through the one-way streets. The rooms are furnished beautifully and cheap. Also the swimming pool in the yard is very clean to our satisfaction. We have dinner at the 5th floor, very cheap and good, in return very little to choose from.

Camagüey - Santiago de Cuba

After the poor breakfast and long time of waiting to pay the bill we have a hotel boy to show us quickly the sights of Camagüey. Time about ¾ of an hour.

Then we continue direction Las Tunas, where we refuel and fortify ourselfs by a pizza. After a short fotostop at the Plaza de Revolución we drive on over Holguín and Bayamo to Santiago de Cuba. The road is mostly in an acceptable state. We are however alert, because now and then potholes make their appearance. In a little town we pass the bridge is blocked. So we all have to go down steep to cross the river and then climb up again, which is a real problem for all the infirm, overloaded Russian trucks.

Shortly before Santiago begins finally something like an expressway, where however pedestrians, cyclists and horse-drawn vehicles mix up with the cars.

We check in for two nights at the Hotel San Juan, a bungalow facility in the middle of a tropical garden. After dinner we take part at the hotel-owned cabaret-show.

Santiago de Cuba: Parque Céspedes and museums

After sleeping late and a breakfast buffet we take a taxi to get into the center of Santiago de Cuba. The ride with a local expert is preferable, because we would get lost in these narrow one-way streets.

We step out in front of the Hotel Casa Grande, situated directly on Céspedes square. We visit the Casa de Diego Velázquez, the residence of the first Cuban governor that was completed in 1522 as one of the first buildings in Latin America. The influence of the Andalusian Mudéjar style shows in the lattice barred balconies, the miradores. As focal point above all there are displayed furniture made from precious Cuban woods.

After a short walk around the square we go to the roof terrasse of the Hotel Casa Grande, from where you have an excellent view over the old town of Santiago.

After a light refreshment in the hotel we step further on the street Aguilera towards the Bacardí-Museum. There are shown subjects from all over the world, among others mummies from Egypt and Peru or even a shrunken head.

Another little stroll to the Padre Pico staircase, which separates the upper from the lower part of the town.

The swimming pool of the hotel invites to a refreshing bath in the later evening. Dinner in the hotel.

Santiago de Cuba: Gran Piedra and Morro

After breakfast we start in the direction of Siboney. Before the Granjita Siboney, which served Fidel as a hideout, the road turns off towards the mountains. It leads us in a steep way up on the highest elevation of the eastern Sierra Maestra, the Gran Piedra. The top of the mountain looks like a mighty erratic block and can only be reached by foot. The view is unique!

The time is still sufficient before noon to visit the beach of Siboney and the Granjita.

Then it goes on to the Morro of Santiago, where we have a sandwich first. The immense fortress with its full name of Castillo de San Pedro de la Roca lies high up, immediately on the eastside of the entrance of the bay. Architect was the Italian Juan Bautista Antonelli, who also designed the Morro of Havana. In several rooms of the fortress was installed a pirat museum.

We return early because of reservations in the Hotel San Juan we have to move. We find rooms in the Hotel Santiago de Cuba, which does not earn its five stars in the least, except for the prize.

Santiago de Cuba - Ciego de Ávila

After the breakfast in the separée of our floor at the Hotel Santiago de Cuba we take up our way back westwards. After some difficulties at the beginning in Santiago we find at last the highway in the direction of Havana. We make rapid progress. At noon we reach Las Tunas, where we take a pizza to fortify. Then the voyage continues. Rain sets in and the rented car starts to attract our attention. After overrunning a few major puddles the motor starts to stutter and we guess that a little water has gotten into the motor, since this stuttering ceases after a few minutes. Later on the stuttering sets in a new and we think, that it could have its origin in the gasoline.The employee of the rental office had warned us to use the cheaper, but perhaps dirty Regular instead of the more expensive Especial.

So we get to Ciego de Ávila in the evening, where we stay over night in the hotel with the same name.

We enjoy the beautiful swimming pool until a busy Cuban comes and chases us by spraying a fog of probably insect killer all over the place.

Ciego de Ávila - Santa Clara - La Habana

The departure from Ciego de Ávila is planned for 9 o‘ clock. We are late however. The checkout and paying in the hotels is always somewhat difficult. Something is almost everytime not in order, but nobody would ever apologize for it.

The drive to Santa Clara takes its normal course. We make the last stop at the big Central square where the Hotel Santa Clara Libre and the Teatro Caridad, built in 1885, are located. We have lunch on the 5th floor of the Hotel and can observe, how a Cuban is busy with our car. Hopefully, that we, the tourists would give him a tip for his services, he "cleans" over and over again our car with his dirty piece of cloth. Bad luck for him, because it started raining and everything became wet and so we could have denied he ever cleaned the car. Since our meal was lasting too long, he finally gave up.

Soon after Santa Clara the car starts stuttering again. Sometimes it is so bad, we manage to drive only at 60 km per hour. Twice or three times we are forced to stop and, after a while, start the engine new. We cross heavy tropical rainstorms. Fortunately the car runs properly again at the drive round of Havana and through the tunnel. We decide to return the car immediately after arrival and drive to the Hotel Capri. The return goes to our astonishment without problems.

La Habana: Beach and Visit of the Habana Café

After changeing some more travellers cheques (only Thomas Cook accepted) in the Hotel Habana Libre, we drive to Santa María del Mar at the Playas del Este. In front of the Hotel Tropicoco Beach Club we spend the afternoon with swimming and sunbathing.

At 19 hours we take a taxi and drive to the Hotel Meliá Cohiba and to the Habana Café. This cafe is modelled on the American Hard Rock Cafes. The meal is very good, but for Cuban relations too expensive.

La Habana: Market – Lobster Meal

After breakfast we make a stroll to the intersection of the streets C and 19, where there is the biggest foodmarket in Vedado. We buy rice, beans, pork and fruits. For refreshment on this hot day we have a strawberry ice cream, which costs two pesos each.

The afternoon we spend in Habana Vieja, where we saunter once more through the old streets.

The dinner consists today on invitation of the guest family of lobster.

La Habana: Zoologico Nacional

By taxi we drive in the direction of the airport. At the Carretera Central we turn eastwards. Even the driver complains about the nonexisting signposting. After asking we find however the country lane leading us to the entrance of the Zoological Wild Park. The entrance fee is 5 USD, the car and the passengers included. We drive to a parking lot, where we have to pick up a guide. Then it goes by car into a huge open-air enclosure, where many different animals from Africa’s savanna disport. We drive on a paved way past zebras and ostrichs. Behind a bend of the way we catch sight of three rhinoceros, which lie directly besides the way in the shadow of a tree. It is a funny feeling to be separated from the pachyderms only by a rusty Lada door. Further on goes the drive through the savanna landscape, where we get past gnus, giraffes and the in the free wilderness almost exterminated Grevy-Zebras. The guide announces that the elephants would be behind the next bend of way. Shortly before the exit we see the hippopotamus, which have their own swimming pool. We drive to the lions pit. There we have to change into a bus, which brings us through a slot into the free enclosure of the lions. About 35 lions lie dozing in the shadow. On the outside again we go to the raising cage of the wild animals, where the waiter permits us a private audience with the young lions. We are allowed to play with three about one month old lion babys, while their mother hisses at us and jumps against the screen. At last Norma is introduced to us, an eight months old lion girl.

Further on it goes to the facilities for apes and monkeys and other carnivorous animals. These installations look more like solitary confinement cages for animals. A pitiful sight.

La Habana - Varadero - La Habana

Today there is a trip to Varadero, organized by the state, on the program. Prize per person 35 USD.

At seven thirty we are in the lobby of the Hotel Habana Libre, ready for departure, as we have been told during the reservation the day before. After a delay of one hour the takeoff takes place. First we drive in a small bus to Habana Vieja to take aboard some more passengers. Then the ride goes through the tunnel and past the eastern beaches in the direction of Matanzas. After one hour we reach the highest bridge of Cuba, where a rest area is installed. In this place are every day busses with more than 700 tourists locked through, which travel between La Habana und Varadero. Time is just for a few fotos, impossible to order a coffee.

After an additional 30 kilometers we reach the city of Matanzas. The guidance of traffic is hindered, because a new round drive is under construction. The ride follows the seashore and we arrive at the Hicacos-peninsula. Over a bridge, which is at the same time used as a toll station, we get into Varadero. Cubans may pass this checkpoint only, if they inhabit Varadero or if they are employed in a hotel. The bus brings us to a hotel,where we get a welcome drink on the beach terrasse (Orangejuice with a drop of rum).

Off one’s own bat we want to explore the peninsula. We hop into a taxi and have drive us to the Villa DuPont. Nowadays the building is the Restaurant Las Americas and is open to visitors. The golf course can be used.

Back in Varadero-city we visit a beautiful park before we return to the city museum. At the little beach restaurant we eat a grilled red snapper. The museum shows fotos of the founders time of Varadero and trophys of various sportsmen.

After a long bath at the most beautiful beach in Cuba we drive in the late afternoon back to Havana.

Havana: Last Round Tour

For the last time it goes on foot along the Malecón to Habana Vieja. But we make it just from one drink to the other. At last it is anyway five o’clock before we are back. After a cool shower we go for a last time to the paladar in Centro Habana, where we were always so very well served. After dinner we have to pack and go to bed.

Return Flight

Flight back to Europe in the later afternoon.